The Road to Milford

The Road to Milford – a well-worn track

Yup, many of us have made the journey.  The road to Milford Sound is a road journey from Te Anau which is one of the most scenic experiences you can have on four wheels.

In fact, I’ve covered off the road to Milford in a previous blog when we made the trip in with friends in December last year (click here to read my blog).

This road is much more than a way to get to Milford Sound.  For most, it is an unforgettable journey, right into the heart of Fiordland National Park.  There are some striking and significant features which are revealed along this route.  Not only steeped in history but many opportunities for walks and photo stops.

Rushing it Slowly

Exploring Milford Road has always been on our radar.  There were a couple of things to factor in.  Firstly, it is winter so the area can be a bit hit and miss with regards to environmental factors.  Avalanches, snow and flooding is something to be very aware of.

Road closures are common so keeping an eye on the long term forecast is imperative.

Secondly, we figured that this would be the best time to experience Milford Road when NZ’s overseas visitors have been majorly reduced.  There would be no jostling for parking spaces or photo opportunities.  It was actually quite surreal to see many of the ‘hot spots’ completely empty of cars and people.

Eglinton Valley

The first major highlight as you start out would have to be the Eglinton Valley.  It’s unbelievable that this was once filled with glacier ice millions of years ago.  The valley has steep rock sides which forms a wide flat valley.  Golden tussock covers the valley floor.

it’s not often you can stand in the middle of Milford Rd for a photoshoot!

There is a great photo stop along the way which offers spectacular views towards the Alps and beyond.

the size of the towering mountains makes one feel quite small and insignificant

The valley was first explored by Europeans back in 1861 (hence the very English name).  An official roadway was established in 1935 which allowed more visitors to experience the valley’s natural beauty.

the golden glow of the Eglinton Valley

The beauty of the valley is such that several areas were locations in the Lord of the Rings movies.  The Eglinton mountains were the backdrop used for the Misty Mountains in the Fellowship of the Ring (I must sit down and watch those movies one day!).

The last time we traversed this road, we didn’t make the stop at the Mirror Lakes as it was such a miserable day weatherwise.  Another good reason not to stop was the fact that there were no parking spaces available.  Yup, how life was prior to COVID-19.

It was a bit surreal being the only ones at the Mirror Lakes

Well, there was none of those problems for us today.  Even with the caravan on the back, we had the pick of the parking spots.  Not a vehicle in sight!

the reflections weren’t too bad on the day we visited

On a still day, these small tarns (mountain lakes) display a perfect reflection of the Earl Mountains.  They are so popular that there is a very well established wooden walkway so that visitors can walk in a clockwise direction to keep things orderly.

I have certainly experienced better mirror reflections on our travels but can understand why people stop to get that perfect social media shot.

Cascades Creek DoC Camp

On your drive of the Milford Road, you will spot some DoC Camps dotted along the route.  We had our eyes set on Cascades Creek DoC Camp (NZMCA#9041).  This is located 47km along SH94 and is the closest DoC Camp to the sounds.  It is still about another hour’s drive to get to the sounds from here.

the entry to Cascade Creek DoC Camp, right beside its namesake creek

It’s a very large camping area with good access for the larger rigs.  It is on the upper end of the scale for camp fees ($15pp per night).  We have purchased a 1 year DoC Pass which started on 1 July.  We just happened to arrive here on the 2 July.  Talk about getting our full year’s worth of the pass!

we had the pick of the spots when we arrived

it was fair to say we had views both front, back and sides!

By the time evening descended, we counted a total of 5 other vehicles who were overnighting at the camp.  Quite a different story from what happens in the height of the season I’m sure (in normal circumstances).  There was even a hardy young couple who pitched their wee tent.  I offered them a hot cuppa in the morning as they peeled themselves out of a frost/ice-laden tent!  It sent shivers down my spine just looking at it!

was it cold in the morning?…….yup, sure was!

Cascade Creek History

This area has been a camp for a long time!  It was a major campsite set up for the road workers during 1930 while the Milford Road was being constructed.  The section from here to the Hollyford Valley was the really tricky part of the road construction.  Once the road reached the Hollyford Valley they shifted the workers camp.

The Mt Cook tourist Company leased the camp buildings before the AA Southland took it over.  Of course, it is now all DoC owned and operated.

Tea Rooms & Cabins

Once the Milford Road had been completed, Cascade Creek became a very popular stop for morning and afternoon teas.  It would have been met with some pleasure and relief for weary travellers who had to endure a very dusty and bumpy trip.

A fire destroyed the facilities in the late 1970s.  Although they were rebuilt, repeated flooding of them from the creek, plus the eventual sealing of the Milford Road, spelt the end of the tearooms and cabins.  All the buildings were shifted back to Te Anau and still used today in a local holiday park.

it’s worth bundling yourself up and getting out there to capture the starlight show

Lake Gunn

Cascade Creek DoC camp is located next to Lake Gunn.  We were keen to put on the hiking boots and set off while the weather was still relatively ‘normal’.

The Lake Gunn Nature Walk is a 45-minute loop track.  The trail passes through red beech forests teeming with local birdlife.

the heavily laden moss wrapping everything in its path

A lush green, thick moss smothered the trees, logs, rocks and pathway.  Actually everything pretty much sported a coat of green.  It looked like something out of Jurassic Park.

Lake Gunn is best viewed either early morning or late afternoon to get the best reflections

such a majestic view over the lake

There is a side track which takes you to the shores of Lake Gunn.  Wow, what a view!  The backdrop of the vast mountains contrasting with the deep blue waters of Lake Gunn was awe-inspiring!

although it is a short track, it sure packs a punch when it comes to the natural beauty

The lake was named after George Gunn, a runholder, who discovered the lake way back in 1861.

Exploring Further Afield

Leaving the caravan at Cascades Creek, we set off to explore the rest of the Milford Road.  Some of you may recall the terrible floods that hit the region in February 2020.  This wiped out many tracks, trails and huts as well as a good chunk of the roadway.  Workers are still busy restoring some of this damage.  Many of the tracks are still closed, not just for winter, but until all the repairs are completed.

While the road is passable, there is still some work taking place and will be for quite some time.  It must be a blessing for them in particular that the road does not have the normal traffic flow that they would need to manage otherwise.

The Divide

Approximately 84km along the Milford Road from Te Anau, is where many hikers head to so they can trek the Routeburn Track and the Key Summit Track.  This is the lowest east-west pass in the Southern Alps.  The Divide car park consists of a shelter (with information boards) and toilets.  There is also a bus stop to connect the hikers back to the outside world – or drop them off to start their trek.

The entire carpark was blocked off and all trails and facilities closed, once again because of slip/flood damage.

Pop’s (Hollyford Valley) Lookout

Named after Pop Andrews, the road worker who died in an avalanche on September 23, 1983, this is a roadside lookout worth stopping off at.  From here, you can see some incredible views from above the Hollyford Valley.  This is located approximately 86km from Te Anau.

it’s worth stopping for a quick snapshot of the Hollyford Valley

Lower Hollyford Road

The Lower Hollyford Rd is the only turn-off on the entire Milford Rd (approx 87km from Te Anau).  This leads to the original Gunns Camp.  This historical camp sadly got wiped out in the February floods and the road remains closed just past the Lake Marion Walkway.  We were lucky enough to pay the Gunn Camp a visit back in December.  Check out my blog here.

Marian Lake Walk

We were keen to do the walk to Marian Lake.  This is a 3-hour return walk to the alpine lake in a hanging valley.  It just wasn’t meant to be as alas – the track is closed because of flood damage (yup, another casualty!).

disappointing the lake was out of bounds but keen to see the cascades and yup, another swing bridge to negotiate

However, we crossed the swing bridge and walked to the Lake Marion Falls which is a short 10-minute wander up the same track.  We are so glad we did.  The series of cascading waterfalls were in fine form.  We could clearly see where debris had come crashing down from further upstream, reaping havoc on their journey downstream.

there are many layers to the cascading waterfalls

the viewing platform is as far as you can get

The Homer Tunnel

The Homer Saddle is a huge mountain that divides Te Anau and Milford Sound.  Back in the day, climbing over this saddle was the only way to accomplish this route.  Thank goodness that has all changed!

Although the Milford Road itself was a difficult build, it didn’t even compare to the mammoth task of getting through these mountains.

You will reach the Homer Tunnel 101km from Te Anau.

this is a great map showing the elevations of the Milford Road, the tunnel and the descent into Milford Sound

The Homer Tunnel signals your descent to Milford Sound.  It was tunnelled out of solid granite rock and here are some nerdy facts about the tunnel:

• it took nearly 20 years to build
• construction started in 1935
• covers a distance of 1.3 km 
• for every 10 metres, you drop 1 metre in elevation
• workers often had to endure 8 months of snow
• two workers lost their lives to avalanches 
• the road was sealed in 1992

thankfully traffic lights have been installed to control traffic flow

Today, traffic lights control the flow of vehicles.  You don’t need to play Russian Roulette with oncoming traffic – in particular tour coaches!

we stopped at the lookout on the far side of the tunnel but our attention was distracted by some rather cheeky company

The Chasm

The Chasm is a powerful waterfall that’s carved a rather unique path for itself in and through the rock around it.  We couldn’t stop off to visit it on this occasion as it remains closed after the February floods.  Check out our earlier blog on our previous visit (click here).  The Chasm Walk is 108km from Te Anau.

Milford Sound

We finally made it to Milford Sound.  It still seemed reasonably busy with visitors travelling in to take one of the cruises into the majestic fiord.

Under normal circumstances, there is a $10 per hour parking fee, unless you park further up the road and catch the shuttle bus to the wharf.  Under the post-COVID-19 environment, however, the parking is currently free.

so when is a Sound not a Sound………when it’s a Fiord!!

Despite being called Milford Sound, it is actually a fiord.  This is because it was formed by the erosion of ancient glaciers.  It is the only fiord in NZ that is accessible by road.

Its remote location, hugged by steep cliffs and dense rainforest, means that its special features remain largely unspoilt.  It has been captivating travellers for many years.  I have to say, the deep (up to 1,300ft deep in places!), inky blue waters with Mitre Peak rising up from its shores like a standing ovation is extremely impressive, no matter how many times you visit.

Milford Sound Lookout Track

Of all the times I’ve visited Milford Sound, I’ve never noticed the Lookout Track.  Located behind the cafe (and the old THC) you’ll find the entrance to the track.

the view of the fiord from the lookout platform

A short 20 minute climb uphill and you will come to the lookout platform.  You can’t miss Mitre Peak as you gaze out towards the entrance of the fiord.  Did you know that the distinctive shape of the peak gives the mountain its name, after the headwear of Christian Bishops?

the iconic Mitre Peak

At the beginning of the Lookout Track, you will notice a headstone and an information board.  This is the gravesite of Donald Sutherland. He arrived in Milford Sound in 1877 and made it his home for the next 40 years.

the story and gravestone of the Sutherland’s

After his passing in 1919, his wife Elizabeth stayed on at Milford Sound until her death in 1923.

Summary

As described in this blog, there is still a lot of damage from the February floods.  This has just left us with more activities to include the next time we visit.  It is still a captivating area to visit, even in the grips of winter.  The waterfalls, mist and frost just added to the wild and unforgiving nature that is the road to Milford.

Click on the link below for a video of our highlights: