We Nailed the Nevis Valley

Nevis Valley – A remote backcountry road

We Nailed It

We had been hanging around Central Otago for a few weeks (see the previous blog on Alexandra), but the Nevis Valley Road was still sitting on our ‘Things to Do” list.  An entire day is required for the full loop from Cromwell, through the Nevis to Garston and back to Cromwell via Kingston and Frankton.

The round trip is approximately 210km so firstly putting a whole day aside, plus waiting for the perfect weather conditions during the lead up was imperative.  There are a lot of fords and creeks to negotiate.  We wanted to make sure that the water level was down before attempting the full day trip.

The Nevis Valley is effectively three very different environments – the Upper Nevis, the Nevis Gorge and the Lower Nevis.

Current Road Conditions

The warning signs clearly state that this is a  dry weather road only, and may require 4×4.  There is also another sign which states that there are 25 fords to cross.  This number mustn’t have included the streams to negotiate as I diligently counted each water crossing and they totalled 31!

In saying that, the first part of the track from Bannockburn into the Lower Nevis, up over the Duffers Saddle, can be accessed by an ordinary car during the dry summer months.  The condition of the track can lull you into a false sense of security as from this point, through to the other end is where the more challenging part of the track starts.

Good Clearance & possibly 4×4

I’ve heard stories and comments that some have completed the entire crossing in either bus, motorhome or a normal car.  I can only comment on the road and crossings as we experienced them and there was no way that any of these modes of transport would have been able to get across some of the fords and streams.  The last part of the track (Garston end) in particular was the most gnarley.

It is a popular route for 4×4 enthusiasts and they have carved up some deep entry and exits so there were a few occasions when we had to pause and survey which was the best path to follow and how best to tackle them. 

The Ranger (and Scotty) handled the track very well and the deepest water crossing reached no higher than the wheel hubs.  There were a few times when Scotty needed to engage 4 wheel drive.  There was very little mobile phone coverage so we had our Emergency Locator Beacon on board with us in case of emergencies.

Highlights of the Nevis Valley

Carrick Range

The first section of the road over the Carrick Range is a climb to 1,300m.  This road follows the miner’s route to the Nevis diggings and settlements.

Just as we turned off Bannockburn Road we spotted the Carrick Station Woolshed.  The road descending down from the Carrick Range meant that the wagons and early motor vehicles would have to attach a large flat schist rock to the end of a steel chain.  This was to act as a brake on the steep descent.

When they reached the bottom, the rock was discarded at the woolshed.  Some of these rocks were used in the building of this shed.

We Start the Climb

We could understand the need for an extra braking system for those early wagons and motor vehicles.  There is apparently a spot on the road called Dead Horse Pinch.  This is where many of the poor horses pulling wagonloads of dredge pieces up this very steep section of the road, just couldn’t make it any further!  I’ll say no more!

The landscape started to change dramatically.  The track weaved its way uphill through tussock grasslands, pockmarked with gnarly schist rock tors.

Looking back, we could see the Upper Clutha Valley, with Lake Dunstan, flanked by the Pisa Range to the west (with the Southern Alps in the background) and the beautiful Dunstan Mountains to the east.  As we came over the summit, we had panoramic views of the St Bathans Range.

“The Cutting”

Our journey took us through The Cutting which regularly closes in the winter.  This section is the highest maintained mountain pass road in NZ.  We seemed to be surrounded by mountain ranges.  These included Old Woman Range, Garvie Mountains and the Carrick Range.  

We also spotted The Remarkables with Double Cone dominating the skyline.

Lower Nevis Valley

On our descent, we got our first views of the Lower Nevis Valley and the Nevis River nestling within a spectacular tor-dotted tussock landscape.

The valley consists of two sections – each about 6km long, separated by a 4km long gorge (more on this later in the blog).

We spotted the small cluster of buildings close to the Nevis River which is the Ben Nevis Station.  Small clusters of trees throughout the Lower Nevis Valley mark signs of small settlements that used to dot the landscape.

The Crossing Settlement

One of these more substantial settlements was the Crossing Settlement.  This is at the point where the road crosses the Nevis River.

A small settlement sprung up after gold was discovered in the river and its creeks.  There was a small cluster of buildings including three hotels. 

All that is left of the old commercial buildings is one wall of the Nevis Crossing Hotel.  Evidence of the horse yards can also be seen.

Flooding back in the 1860s destroyed all evidence from the first round of mining.  Post flooding, new methods of mining were adopted with various sluicing methods and dredging.  These were carried out as late as 1939.

Clear evidence of their workings could be seen along the valley.  At times there were 6 dredges working in the river.

In the 1870s there were an estimated 300 Chinese working the Nevis area with their own shop set up somewhere south of the Nevis settlement.

Nevis Cemetery

It is thought that there were two cemetery sites in the Lower Nevis.  We spotted the fenced-off area on our right-hand side, on a raised section which had the most amazing views over the valley floor.  The souls that rest here certainly have a peaceful and serene resting place.

It is believed to have up to 40 gravesites.  This includes some Chinese miners.  

Today, there are only a few marked graves, including some very renown names such as Stewart, Graham and McLean.

Lower Nevis Settlement

The Lower Nevis settlement was the main town in the valley.  Less than half the town area remains today thanks to intense dredging operations.

There are a couple of the original structures remaining and are still occupied. 

There is also the ruins of the hotel and store, earth and corrugated iron homestead and a 1903 wooden and corrugated iron homestead. It is still owned by the Adie family.  Their claim lies on the slopes behind the homestead.

We stopped off at a rather eccentric looking hut, surrounded by mining memorabilia and outbuildings.  There were many memories and treasures of a by-gone era.

The Gorge

As mentioned earlier, the valley is in two parts, separated by a 4km gorge.  We spotted the stacked stone mounds at the entrance to the gorge which was a major Chinese working claim.  The rest of the tailing evidence was from both Chinese and European workings.

We also spotted the occasional stone remains of some of the miner’s huts.

Again, similar to the Lower Nevis Valley, the miners used various mining techniques – sluicing, dredging and hydraulic elevation which has left behind their telltale ponds dotted through the gorge and valleys.

Baillie’s or Bailey’s Hill

We nearly missed the abandoned homestead of John Bailey, named “Loch Linnhe”.  He was one of the first miners in the area.

Nestled between trees and off the main track lay the ruins of the abandoned homestead.  There was a new homestead built near Kingston.  However, for many years it provided shelter for miners and dredge workers when toiling away in this area.

Set behind the homestead is an excellent example of an old stone hut.  This was formerly the old O’Connell home, then a mustering hut.  We could see the names of the yearly mustering gangs inscribed on the ceiling rafters.

Camerons Gully

Before starting our ascent over the Hector Mountains, we stopped off at Camerons Gully.  There is a large Hydraulic Elevating Hole which today, is a very pretty pond which appears like an oasis in the tussock laden land.

The remains of the old stone huts would indicate that the operation was carried out in the late 1800s.  The hydraulic elevation workings were actually between 1930 and 1948.  Certainly, a more recent activity compared to other mining operations throughout the area.

Hector Mountains

This is the next big climb on the Nevis Valley Road.  The climb up the Hector Mountains is not as high as the Carrick Range.  We ascended the 1,100m above sea level and it was quite stunning.  Nokomai valley came into view with the Roaring Lion Creek joining up to the Nevis River.

Chinese miners built and maintained The Roaring Lion Creek water race.  We caught glimpses of it twisting and turning down towards where the Nokomai workings took place.  This was the main water supply for the Nokomai mining operations from 1900 through to the 1940s.

Historic Ski Hut

On the downhill slopes of the Hector Mountains lies the old historic ski hut.  The building of the hut started in 1934.  Constructed in three stages, by 1946 it could accommodate 45 skiers.  A new ski hut on Coronet Peak was built in 1950.  This became more popular with skiers.  They considered Coronet Peak had better ski conditions and equipment.

DoC now looks after the maintenance and repairs.  The hut could do with a bit of TLC.  I’m not sure too many people take advantage of the overnight digs.  There was a lot of daylight filtering through the walls and window flashings.